Civita di Bagnoregio

By Philip de Bruin©

May 2004

Just before Easter 2004 we decided on a quick visit to Rome, “before the crowds arrive.” How naïve! The crowds are there all the time!

But this is not about Rome. More has been written over the millenniums about Rome than you and I can read in a lifetime.

We heard that the restoration work on the Duomo of Orvieto was completed, and planned a stop-over in or near Orvieto. In reality, there is still some restoration work in progress on the façade which obscures the lovely low reliefs adorning the pillars. But the frescoes of Luca Signorelli in the Chapel of San Brizio are now as vivid as the day they were done. Done in 1490, Signorelli is considered Michelangelo’s predecessor in terms of an almost sculptural approach to painting.

Get tickets outside the entrance to the Duomo at the Informazione. We did not experience crowds. Worth an effort to see it. Besides, Orvieto is one of the hill towns on our list of Most Beautiful Villages in Italy.

While I was searching the Internet for accommodation on in or near Orvieto, I came across a reference to Civita. Although, after much search, my Michelin map showed a Civita, none of our trusted travel books – including the Michelin Green Guide made any mention of it. After Orvieto we went in search of Civita and what a delightful surprise!

It is built on the pinnacle of a hill with sheer and crumbling cliffs. Civita is slowly dying. Mud slides on all sides probably happen every year. But for the moment it must be one of the most beautiful hill towns in Italy. It is linked from the parking area on the outskirts of Bagnoregio by a narrow, and steep, pedestrian bridge. If it wasn’t for this rather modern bridge, the approach to the top of the hill would have been too dangerous.

The first reports mentioning Bagnoregio – Royal bath – are dated from the 6^th century. There are still some spas in Bagnoregio. Civita must have been the stronghold and castle of Bagnoregio. During our visit Civita was a sleepy hill town with us the only tourists around. There are several art studios and several restaurants with one souvenir shop. Even a B&B! I suppose they get more visitors during summer.

When fog fills the surrounding valley, Civita appears to be sleeping on the clouds when seen from Bagnoregio.

We then headed for nearby Montefiascone. I saw on the Internet some references to the recently renovated Hotel Urbano V (www.hotelurbano-v.it) and we thought we’ll have a look. What a find! We immediately decided to stay the night. It boasts three stars, but will easily pass four. However, the spacious double room with spotless bathroom – shower only – was only €80 for the night, continental breakfast included.

The friendly receptionist, who spoke good English, referred us to a choice of several restaurants. The majority are in the Via Bandita with a view over Lake Bolsena. The ambience at the Trattoria Pizzeria da Paolo al Miralago worked for us and it turned out to be one of those establishments that can only be found in Italy. If you don’t go early you’ll be out of luck. Packed with locals. Paolo, the owner, himself is the chef for all main courses and it is prepared right there in the dining area with an open hard-wood fire supplying the coals for the grill. Catrien and I enjoyed a huge three course dinner with wine for a mere €32.

But what we’ll remember longer is the ambience. We marvelled at the appetite and capacity of an extended family of fourteen people, spanning three generations, which arrived at the restaurant before us. They started with several pizzas cut and shared amongst them. Several huge plates of Parma ham, plus assorted antipasti. Their starters alone would have been an ample meal to us. But then they each enjoyed a huge plate of spaghetti-al-mare with mussels, prawns and lobster. We assumed that this was their main course, but no, the main course arrived in the form of the Italian version of roast beef cutlets with fried potatoes.

This feast carried on for about two hours and when we started to get ready to leave, their second main course arrived! Grilled pork kebabs. We did not wait to see more. I suspect that they carried on feasting for a long time still. And the most amazing thing is that even the grand-parents were lean, almost underweight, with designer clothes fitting them perfectly! This, to me, is the Italian paradox!